This trip has become something of an annual tradition so I now have to separate it out by year. I’ll start with the more trivial lessons and get more profound toward the end, so you can stop reading whenever you want but at least you’ll have gobbled up the little morsels.
-spend more than $5 on tempura. It’s totally worth it.
-Japanese people are still pretty traditional in navigating streets by landmarks rather than intersections (a feature of GPS). It’s pretty tough if you’re not used to it but it is surprisingly useful. After all, humans are still more conditioned for narratives than laundry lists.
-my proudest accomplishment: a 13 mile run on December 31 around Lake Kawaguchi. A good way to end the year.

It was not only my longest run since high school, it has to be in the top 5 of beautiful runs I’ve ever done in my life. This is what I was looking at as I ran:

-I became a small god at Kinkaku-jin Temple because they have this little bowl about 5 meters from the walking path where you’re supposed to try to throw money into it. It’s that carnival game where you try to throw coins onto the plates, but somehow I managed to throw a coin and get it into the bowl, drawing a cheer from the crowd.
-the theme for this year will be beauty through simplicity. Doing things superbly in a simple way is actually quite difficult but it is perhaps something I should master. The remaining points are pretty much all things that I talked about with Aki’s dad. Man, I’d love it if I could just spend 2-3 years living in Japan near them and just osmosing knowledge. But I’ve realized that his best quality is that he can take tons of information, distill it, come out with a single simple point that can easily be adapted. So it’s not so much the quantity of knowledge that makes him wise so much as the senses built with the learning. I’m a little different in that I’ve become a storehouse of information but I’m not sure I can distill it into simple tasty points. I’m a Four Loko of knowledge right now and I need to be clean, crisp sake.
-Aki’s dad has been doing deals for Japanese companies to aggressively expand abroad, especially to the US and Europe. This is a developed strategy for several reasons: the yen is at historical highs, Japanese firms have too much cash, poor Japanese demographics leave few opportunities for high growth, the global economy is at a particularly weak moment (especially the US and Europe), and he expects this window to be open for 2-3 years so Japanese companies should start sowing the seeds now for foreign expansion. His role is that he’s trying to establish his name brand so that when Japanese executives want to look abroad, they call him to ask for advice. It’s less private equity (which is still equated with trash in Japan) and more investment banking. Nobody wants to sell their company to him, but they’re willing to hear him out when he talks about partnerships to help acquire foreign firms.
-America and the EU seem to be reaching for easy solutions by weakening the dollar and euro. This is actually a parallel to the early Great Depression when the Great Powers raced to devalue their currencies; it’s an easy way to boost exports and artificially raise competitiveness while justifying public spending by pouring money into the economy. But devaluing the currency is a dangerous game. The Treasury criticized Japan this week, but Aki’s dad treated it as mostly just gnashing teeth and politics. Ben Bernanke already knows he’s not smart enough to know how hard to press and when to stop, and that’s a very good reason to not play. A problem with being the center of the global economy is that devaluing the dollar will confuse global markets and US society, and the bottom could fall out at any moment. The US might do it anyways because there’s nothing else better to do, but it should be stopped and discipline re-imposed by the rise of Asia. As I constantly fear, our problems are big and nobody at the top knows how to fix it.
Also, the other “easy” solution is to expand the military. If you’re talking about hiring lots of useless young people, investing in industries to give them goods, and providing society with reasons to accept lots of harsh new rules, this solves lots of problems at once. It’s worth pointing out that this was the dark shadow of the New Deal and something that all the Great Powers did to actually implement Keynesian policies successfully. Uh, you’d hope for more of the 1980s (i.e. no war) than the 1930s.
-Aki’s dad also pointed out that the European Union was always a political thing. It never made sense economically and wasn’t designed to be a profitable venture so much as try to promote peace by sharing the prosperity during good times and prevent disaster by sharing the burden during bad times. But now that political will is being severely tested as Europeans struggle to decide how much they want to pay for other people’s problems. He thinks ultimately they’ll make it just because the political consequences are just too costly for any quitters. But it’s ironic that Germany wanted to be the master of Europe, Greece wanted to be Europe’s basket case, Italy and Spain wanted to be the scandal-prone drama queens of Europe…and they all got what they wished for.
-Also, 2012 is a hugely significant political year. Almost all of the OECD have major elections and currently almost all of the OECD leaders are predicted to lose their jobs. Obviously we know about the US election, where Obama’s chances are polled at 50-50. Merkel’s chances in Germany are about the same and she would pull through for the same reason (i.e. her opponents are incompetent). But for France, the UK, South Korea, Italy, Taiwan, Japan, Israel, etc., their leaders are on notice that the public is very unhappy with how things are going and they are on track to lose badly. But even for non-democratic countries, China also has a pending leadership change in 2012 and there is LOTS of politics in the Politburo.
-Aki’s dad grew up in Minamata in the late 1950s, when there was a scandal involving mercury poisoning. The long and short of it is that Chisso Corporation was dumping mercury into the river where the locals got their fish. People started exhibiting strange symptoms and dying, and a long House-like investigation ensued. Chisso knew the people were suffering from mercury poisoning and that they caused it but they blocked the investigation and denied to the bitter end. They even built a fake water filter but kept their political donations up to prevent closure of the factory and regulations to stop polluting the river. In the end, they paid huge settlement amounts to the victims in Minamata, after de facto nationalization by the Japanese government (i.e. they bailed them out so the company couldn’t declare bankruptcy but simply took all their profits until the debt was repaid).
This leads to two separate points:
-this aided in the democratization and equalization of Japanese society. The scandal was so bad that it basically reversed the trend of growing inequality in an emerging market, so Japanese corporations instituted the current system where they pay workers generously and don’t pay management exorbitantly like you see in the US. It was basically a crime against the very poor, because the worst incidents of mercury poisoning were in fishing families and the destitute, who tended to eat shellfish on the ground and fish offal (which you shouldn’t do even before pollution).
-this provides the model that will probably happen to Tepco in the wake of the Fukushima disaster. Let’s be honest, it’s far worse than they’re saying and everyone knows it. They released a detailed timeline of the disaster last week (i.e. burying it under New Year’s news), and it showed a lot of man and machine incompetence. For instance, the computers automatically shut down after the earthquake, but it was still rebooting when the workers on site got a tsunami warning, so they manually shut down the computers. Some of these workers were killed in the tsunami, but they didn’t tell anyone they had overridden the computer and manually shut it down (which requires a manual restart). Hours later, Tepco officials were scratching their heads wondering why the computers didn’t come back online like they were supposed to (all other Japanese utilities did). When they finally asked, the workers admitted they turned it off and had forgotten to turn it back on. But the point is that Tepco will be paying the citizens of Fukushima for a very long time, and probably the Japanese government will take them over at some point. Although interestingly, growing voices in Japan are calling for deregulation as a result, so that the Japanese taxpayer isn’t on the hook for Tepco’s F-ups.
-on to corporate governance and Olympus. There’s no sugar-coating that Olympus is a mess but it demonstrates such incompetence that it’s unusual. How can 15 sophisticated board members sign off on a merger deal where the lawyers get paid 30%, $1.5 billion? It’s crazy, so crazy that he suspects that there might in fact be Yakuza involvement, or some kind of other extreme corruption lurking beneath the surface.
We talked about different types of governance between the US, Japan, China, and the EU, but the first principle of governance is always the same – you’re looking for high-quality people to lead and manage, with accountability to some majority and enough flexibility to listen and respond to the minority when it has a good point. The obvious fact is that Olympus does not have any of these things but it’s difficult to change things.
-as far as economists and opinion pieces, Aki’s dad says he reads and listens to their analysis and presentation of facts, but he ignores all of their conclusions. Pretty much, intellectuals and academics are very good at extracting data and presenting analysis, but they never live in the real world so they’re awful at predicting the future or drawing meaningful conclusions. Most of it is that they think logically and assume events occur in a linear fashion. Any length of life experience proves this is absolutely untrue, and the lack of linearity affects people’s perception of events. Anyways, it’s kind of stupid to lean on someone else’s opinion as a basis for your own, you should take the data for yourself and come up with your own educated guess about what will happen. From your own life, you should already know if you are good or bad at predicting the future and good or bad at taking action on that (i.e. gambling).
-he also had a fairly mixed view of the Occupy movement. He expected something like this to happen but he was surprised that it didn’t excite the imagination of the public, that people were almost resistant to it. There’s a strange disconnect that Americans are very conceptual at thinking about inequality and most would probably favor some redistribution of wealth, but when someone sticks their hand out and says “give me money”, they’ll flatly refuse and then nothing will happen – this means that “the poor” in America aren’t too badly off. So in this regard, he thinks Europe is the place to really watch in 2012 about how modern society will be altered, because when people say no to the poor in Greece, they riot.
-This point was inspired by watching a special on Japanese news about gold speculation. They showed a Japanese trader from a bank and a Chinese day trader in early December after the ECB lowered interest rates to 1% and started the long slide in gold prices ever since (from $1755 to ~$1500 today). In the end, the Japanese trader bet before the announcement but lost his nerve when things initially went against him, so he only made a $10k profit. The Chinese day trader looked at trading patterns in a quasi-mathematical way and ended up losing $20k.
-Both of these guys are immature and stupid traders. The proper way to trade is chart analysis, to try and hoard as much knowledge as you can to make educated predictions about the market. What you really want is a narrative constructed from what affects the markets and how, and then to predict the future from that narrative and adapt.
The Japanese guy is stupid because he has a very limited story (i.e. “the ECB will cut interest so gold prices will fall”). He doesn’t know the future so making a position before the announcement is just gambling, so his whole narrative could be wrong from the very beginning. He also doesn’t use the enormous resources at his disposal to figure out who is buying and selling gold, which he could find out because he works at a bank. And then he is satisfied with his performance because he made a profit, but he doesn’t know that he’s just a damn lucky fool. But his profit is nothing, it doesn’t justify his office or his computer or salary, because he did something that a child can do. Markets are a 50-50 shot, either the price goes up or it goes down. Any idiot can just guess. But when you let a bank invest your money, you’re not paying for guesses (or you shouldn’t be).
The Chinese guy is just ridiculous because he eschews even publicly available information and just trades on trends. This is the kind of sucker that banks love because he always buys if the price goes up and then sells when the price drops. He’s also the reason why bankers get paid so much, as living proof that amateurs can never match professionals. He made his fortune speculating on gold but his wealth is a castle made of sand, it will disappear one day as quickly as it appeared.
-monetary policy is a support for the economy, it can’t lead and rebuild it. The basic problem is that the economy is broken because of supply and demand problems – we built too many homes and now nobody is spending their money, which is problematic because US GDP is 70% consumption. The government can’t just fix that by injecting money into the system. The theory is that GDP = consumption + investment + government spending + trade, so if consumption is down, the government should just spend to rebalance the equation. But that’s totally conceptual and it has no real-life application. I mean, where should the government give money? To consumers, just hand out $600 checks again? People won’t spend it in a sustainable manner so that fixes nothing. To GM and other money-losing companies? Are you crazy? The best thing might be for the US government to invest in healthy companies, leveraging high-growth opportunities so that they have even better growth and then use that to hire more workers. But why does the government need to take that risk?
But anyone who says more spending will work is totally ignoring the glaring example of Japan, who also tried to reverse deflationary pressure with lots of public spending. The problem is that even with public works, workers know they are only temporarily hired so they hoard their money and don’t spend it. You can only spend on consumer goods if you expect to have a stable or growing income. If you are uncertain about your job status, it is just stupid to spend money. And that’s exactly what we’re seeing.
The approaching problem is that our globalized world has connected lots of very different kinds of systems and now things don’t fit quite right. This has put lots of pressure on the social nets in the OECD countries and inevitably they will change. The question is how and whether people can accept that. Japan has tried many times and now their government is a revolving door as politicians are kicked out whenever they raise the issue. America is starting to shift its weight uncomfortably. And in Europe, you see much more tension as people prepare to get really angry.
Thought: I will distill these points into a more coherent post.
Thing I like about myself: I’m much smarter and wiser than I was a week ago. Also tougher and more handsome.